People selling flowers in Old Delhi
Market day in Old Delhi
The Taj Mahal
Mr. Sheva, our rickshaw driver, and Gandhi, our Taj Mahal guide
View from our tuk-tuk ride in Agra.
Jaipur train station
Feeding monkeys at Galta
Hindu worshippers leaving Galta
Elephant ride
Train ride
Leaving Delhi for our flight to Kathmandu
My dad and I mostly decided to go to India so we could see the Taj Mahal, and I would say it was worth it. We started out in Delhi, and I could hardly believe how huge and crowded it was. We spent Sunday on a tour through Delhi, which was perfect because it wasn't too crowded. The sights were interesting: Gandh's cremation site and memorial {Rajghat}, Old Delhi's Red Fort and the Jama Masjid mosque, the President's house and India Gate in New Delhi, and Humayun's Tomb, which was a precursor to the Taj Mahal.
The next day we were in Agra for sunrise at the Taj Mahal and then went to Fatehpur Sikri in the afternoon. The Taj was incredibly beautiful and seemed completely out of place in dirty, frenetic Agra. We rode all the way out to Fatehpur Sikri in a tuk-tuk {about 40 km}, but getting out of the city was the best part. The driver took us through parts of the city that we never would have seen otherwise. We ended up in a traffic jam with tuk-tuks, bikes, rickshaws, people walking, cars, and a herd of cows. There were no other tourists to be seen. Trash, animals, people everywhere. As we traveled through India I realized that I didn't care much about the tourist sites. Fatehpur Sikri was interesting enough and pretty, but I enjoyed the ride through the city so much more.
We took a train to Jaipur early the next morning. I love riding trains. It's so fun to look out the window, and to watch the other people on the train. Jaipur was more calm than Agra, but still there were animals everywhere. We went to Galta, a Hindu pilgrimage site outside the city. The setting was so beautiful, and it feeding monkeys was both awesome and creepy. I loved seeing the people worshipping and studying. We also loved exploring the Amber Fort, which seemed to have passages and new rooms going on forever. Here we also rode an elephant, which was actually a strange experience and very typical of India weirdness. Jaipur had some of my favorite sites and favorite food.
We made the trip back to Delhi on the train and spent our last day taking a very slow, congested drive into Old Delhi, and then only having time to get lunch. Our destination was a restaurant called Karim's, which is tucked back on a side street near Jama Masjid and has been there for over 100 years. At one point it was named on Time Magazine's list of the ten best restaurants in Asia, and the food was phenomenal, authentic Mughal dishes. This was our last night in India and we weren't very hungry after our amazing lunch, so we got a little pizza from Domino's by our hotel and watched Modern Family for a little slice of America before heading to Nepal.
India was fascinating and definitely an experience. Even though I had seen poverty like that before, I don't think it's something you can ever get used to. It assaults all your senses, and it's a lot to deal with emotionally. The thing I missed in India was interaction with people. Everywhere we went, people were constantly trying to scam us or get money in any way. We found we couldn't talk to anyone without being expected to give them money, and that was disappointing to me. We kept ending up with drivers who told us it wasn't safe to walk around in the markets, which was something I really wanted to do. Even people, like these drivers, who put on a guise of trying to give help and advise all seemed to be working an angle and we had very few interactions that felt sincere, except maybe a couple people at our hotel in Delhi and from people on our flight.
I didn't experience any of the Indian hospitality that we kept hearing about. I'm sure this is not the experience of everyone who visits India, but it left me feeling somewhat ambivalent about the country. Still, it was an adventure and an experience. I always think there are things to be learned from seeing how different people live, and it hurt my heart to see the state of desperation in which most of these people were living. I left feeling very grateful for my life.